18th Century Housewife - sewing kit

Common in the 18th century (and many other times as well) were small wallet like objects, often used to house sewing supplies and money, called a housewife. Often times women would make them out of scraps of fabric. They were handy (invaluable, really) at keeping together all the little bits and bobs that were so very important in day to day mending. Sewing implements were not always as easily obtained as they are today, by a trip to any craft store, or indeed, even Walmart. Historically such objects were valuable, not always monetarily, but precious none-the-less. Especially during war times it became even harder for women to come by things like needles and pins. So common today, once could command a price.

I used period appropriate scrap materials that I had on hand to work my housewife out of. The lining and outer piece are both of a pretty blueish green linen. I've used brown wool scraps for the needle book and attached pin cushion (stuffed with wool roving, of course, no polyester fiberfill here!) The edges are bound with brown wool twill tape, which also creates the tie to hold it closed. Some small amounts of the hand sewing were completed with a green/blue silk thread while most were finished instead with a pinkish linen thread.

Women also were known to use embroidery to decorate such items. Often times more as a practice piece to help hone their skills for other household items. I drew my inspiration from "18th Century Embroidery Techniques" by Gail Marsh. Specifically "a silk needlecase decorated with ribbon-work flowers and leaves. Gawthorpe Hall, Lancashire, UK" pictured on page 15. Also a second silk needlecase with ribbon-work, also from Gawthorpe Hall pictured on page 165. I used the general sway of the flower stems and types as inspiration for an appropriate type of decoration. I worked my design all by hand (as with the whole case) in silk threads and silk ribbons.

 The housewife has three pockets, a sewn in needle book and pin cushion as well as twill tape attachment for holding the scissors securely at the ready. 

The wool "pages" to hold the needles and pins. Here are some purchased reproduction 18th century pins. 

The needles are held at the top. Below you can see the green silk thread I used to hem the edges of the inner pockets.

This is the attached pin cushion made of wool and filled with wool roving. It isn't stuffed too tightly so that the housewife still folds up to be relatively flat. 

Some of the bone/horn thread winders with black and white linen threads and brown and green silk embroidery threads. At the bottom you can see that I also used the brown twill tape to secure the bottoms of each pocket. This was for a nice neat finish as well as a little extra strength across the bottoms of the pockets 

Here are the contents of the middle pocket. Some more bone thread winders with silk embroidery threads and also a fancy horn winder with silk sewing thread. A wonderful hand labeled linen tape measure. You can also see the small reproduction embroidery scissors tied to the outside of the pocket. 

The bottom pocket holds a molther of pearl edged beeswax holder as well as a bone stiletto and bodkin. To me my stitching on that brown twill tape looks fantastic in this picture, if I do say so myself. I swear it isn't machine though. All hand stitched. I promise. 

Here is the lot that I currently keep housed in the housewife. Some all purpose threads as well the silk embroidery threads in the colors I am currently using on another project. 

The full view of the silk ribbon-work embroidery. 

You can see that I used whipstitch to hold down the twill tape binding on the outside. Here you can see the date I embroidered on it. 1743. Of no particular importance, just a date I choose in the 18th century. I wanted a date sometime around the 40's-50's, and quite liked the look of the 4 and the 3. Of interest I have since become a fan of the Outlander series and 1743 is the year Claire is transported to back in time in Scotland. A nice little coincidence for me. 

The stems are stitched (backstitch) with a green silk thread. The leaves and flowers are all silk ribbons. Here peach and pale pink flowers with yellow centers and green leaves. 

The embroider continues on to show burgundy buds and large flowers in shades of deep red. There are also some larger leaves in various shades of green. I used different shades to add some depth and interest to the piece. 

Here you can see close up some of the ribbon-work. 

The design ends at the top with a single large flower and then the edge (upside down in comparison to the rest, but right side up when the pouch is folded) are my initials (K.D.) as well as buds and small red berry clusters on either side. 

The pouch all folded up. 

And tied with a bow. 

Not held in my housewife but here are also my wooden awl and needle case. I added the silk ribbon and silk tassel (also two glass beads) to the needle case. It can slip over my wrist. 

As you can see from the images the pattern is quite simple and I just made it up as I went. Simple rectangles of various sizes sewn together to create the correct size and shape I wanted. And that, my friends, is the beginning of my 18th century sewing kit!

SUPPLIES SOURCES:

Wool fabric: JoAnn Fabrics

Linen fabric: Fabrics Store

Wool Twill Tape, Linen thread, Assorted thread winders, bone stiletto, bone bodkin, waxer, rosewood needlecase: Wm. Booth, Draper

Assorted thread winders, including the fancy horn one: The Scarlet Scarab

Assorted thread winders and reproduction embroidery scissors, reproduction pins: Burnley & Trowbridge Co.

Linen measuring tape: A Fashionable Frolick

Hand dyed silk embroidery threads (not used, pictured on the winders), wood awl: Hedgehog Handworks (no affiliation, but I love the store and approve of the name!)

Additional silk threads are Gutterman silk, Kreinik silk and the ribbons are bulk from ebay. 

Viking age wallet

Through my research I came across a viking age wallet found in Eide, Norway. It is housed in a museum in Bergen.

This is one of the easiest things to make. Anybody can do this. I mean it. YOU can make this. I found the wallet and thought it was very neat and had some nice supple suede laying around and decided to use the scraps I had to make this. You can use something else, such as a heavier leather. The suede was super easy to work with though and it made the hand stitching VERY easy.

The shape is so simple you don't even need a pattern. Really. Just draw it out on a piece of paper. It is a long rectangle that flares at the bottom and then another piece shorter to match. Then you need a long thong to wrap it shut.

The wallet all foled up. I made mine big enough to house modern credit cards. Hey! I'm a modern viking! A girl's got needs!

The strap to wrap it up with. The strap is just hand stitched on with a small cross stitch that is reinforced. I used linen thread. 

When you cut it out make sure that the long part is long enough to wrap completely around 1 time and then have enough to fold over a bit more at the top for that nice wrapped up look. You can see in this photo where the folds happen. 

I stitched this right sides together so that it is turned here. The seam allowance is on the inside of the wallet. 

This whole thing only takes 3 pieces. The long back, the short front and then the tie. Easy Peasy! 

You can see the inside where the seam is. 

Got make your favorite viking this wallet. It is easy and makes a great accurate accessory. 

Nalbinding SOCKS!

These are an old project and unfornatley I don't have any pictures of how I made them, but someday I will be making a pair for my husband and I will try to remember to document that process.

I hopped onto the nalbinding train before it reached its current speed within the SCA. It seems like lately everybody is nalbinding up a storm! When I began though it was very difficult to find somebody to teach me as well as to find information online without dropping a lot of money on books.

I did find an old handout from an SCA event that detailed the Oslo stitch and I taught myself that stitch and went from there, sort of making it up as I went. I'm good at that.

Along the way by far the most helpful website I found with information is http://www.en.neulakintaat.fi/ This Finnish website is fantastic! I used the way to make socks detailed there and just hoped of the best. There is always room for improvement, but I am very happy with my socks. They are slightly loosely nalbound because I used  lightweight wool yarn. They are still very cushy and warm but breath wonderfully during the hot summer SCA events.

I also have made hats and mittens, using the instructions give at that website. It is great. I HIGHLY recommend it.

When I made these I started at the top, making sure the loop I made was large enough to fit over the largest part of my foot - being the diagonal from heel top of ankle. Because there is some stretch to these the top of the sock does fit that angle. This is VERY important. If you make the tops too small you wont be able to get your socks on!

From there I made several rows and just kept trying it on as I went. I went down as far as I wanted the top/cuff to go and then stopped. I then added on the heel part, working it down tightly making sure it fit my foot as I worked. Lastly all I had to do was add on as many rows, growing slowly smaller as was necessary to fit the length of my foot. Making the socks in this manner it was very easy to make sure they fit  me! 

This is the toe of my sock. You can see how much denser it is as I took up more stitches to decrease the size until at the very tip it is all worked together and the last few stitches are tied off. 

Here you can see the work where the heel breaks off and if you look closely and follow the rows you can see where the breaks happen and how the heel is its own cup portion worked onto the back of the sock. 

When they are on while there is plenty of stretch to the work they do not have huge holes. 

The band around the top was inspired by a viking age find. The original did not have this high of a cuff and had a red band at the top. I liked the idea of a plain sock with just a band of color at the top. You can see how nicely these socks fit my feet, even conforming to the arch. It was actually quite easy to do, I just worked row by row fitting as I went. You can see along the side the places where I took up stitches to gradually make the sock smaller going towards the toes. 

I didn't get my boots until  later, but I am so glad that I made my socks tall enough! I wanted them to be able to stick out the top of my boots. The reason is two fold. I wanted them to cushion my ankles from the leather rubbing against them and I wanted that band of color to show! I accomplished everything I wanted to with these socks. The boots are from Viking Leather craft and for the cheap cost they are worth it to have semi period accurate foot wear. These are not turn sole, though they do offer them as well, which would be accurate. 

Now go make yourself some viking socks! 

Viking cap in wool with wool tablet woven trim UPDATE

I was looking through my old posts and realized I don't have much follow through on updates! I begin these projects and let the internet know, but when I finish them I never tell more!

Well the viking cap has been in use by my husband for a few years now. He loves it. It was one of his Christmas presents years ago and he still regularly uses it. I even made him a nalbound hat more recently (Oh geez! SO MUCH to tell!) but he still won't wear it and instead always wear this one!

In the end I hand stitched all the seams with linen thread and it turned out to our liking.

This is a very simple tablet woven trim. It is in a chunky wool and worked up SUPER fast. 

You can see the slight contrast stitching. This was done on purpose and is seen in historic viking age garments. 

Nice close up of the stitching and weaving. 

The inside of the hat. You can see where the trim has been hand stitched in place and also how I turned over the inside seams and then secured them with the decorative and practical stitch in a contrasting color. This finishing is found on some viking age garments. 

If you followed the old hat post you should recognize that hat there on his head! The vikings were more bright and bold that we are in our garb but we like our colors, even if they might be a bit too matchy matchy for viking tastes. 

I'll have to update later with instructions on our tent, more about our finished viking bed as well as all the garb pieces I have made for us. 

A Viking Hedgehog!

Just for fun I found this toy Playmobil "Viking" helm. It looked about the right size for our hedgehog Thistle Fluff.

Yes! I know the vikings didn't have horns, but you have to admit, she makes an adorable Viking Hedgehog! 

18th Century garters - Doctor Who style!

To go along with my 18th Century project I will need garters, OF COURSE! How else would my stockings stay up? Certainly not with elastic! I did some looking at some extant garments and decided my favorites where the ones that had an embroidered panel that is then tied with a ribbon. Amongst these my favorites were the 'motto' ones. 

I spent quite a bit of time trying to come up with a motto that I liked well enough to put on my garters. I was watching my favorite show, Doctor Who and happened to be re-watching The Girl in the Fireplace. This episode features Madame De Pompadour and the 10th Doctor, David Tennant. Along with the drool worthy Doctor there were some beautiful costumes, even if they weren't all accurate. 

Madame De Pompadour comes to the conclusion that along with the Doctor come the monsters. You cannot have one without the other. She tells Rose Tyler that "One may tolerate a world of demons, for the sake of an angel," referring to the Doctor as an angel. I feel in love and decided this had to be my motto!

So I decided on this geeky motto that only a Who fan would possibly recognize. Then I mulled over putting it in French but in the end decided to go with English to show off (OH MY! Not my garters!) my geekiness. 

Everything decided I sketched out my design. One garter will read "One may tolerate a world of" and the other "demons for the sake of an angel." 

Next step was to assemble ingredients - I mean materials! I am using a SUPER SOFT white 100% linen from JoAnns. I find this linen softer than that from fabrics-store.com. I'm also using this white linen for my pockets and the lining for my stays because it is soooo soft. I am using Kreinik silk to embroider. 

I purchased this delicious hand dyed ribbon from Hedgehog Handworks. It is Gloriana ribbon. It is wonderfully lustrous and soft. I'm using a great gold color. 

My assortment of Kreinik silk floss I am using for this project. My stays will be a bit dark in color as will my gown (I'm sure) so I wanted these garters to be a bit happy and bright. 

My design is hand drawn with Crayola washable maker. I have begun the embroidery and am very happy with it so far. 

I still have a long way to go! 

18th Century Stays

Sooo the Viking Hedgehog is stepping out of the 800's! This isn't an SCA related project because it falls outside of the acceptable time period. I have had a love of 18th century clothing since I was a little girl and had the colonial American Girl doll, Felicity. I found her a while ago when I was going through some old things from my childhood and fell in love with her wardrobe all over again.

I have had the Simplicity patterns for that outrageous Marie Antoinette type court gown and underwear for ages now. I had planned to use that and just make this as a costume. Then the more I looked into it and thought about it, I realized I was making this gown for myself as a project and not just to wear to events. The fact is, I have no place at all to wear this to. So I decided to make it for the love of the project instead and then I decided that I wanted a reasonable amount of accuracy to it.

I knew I needed to start from the inside out - I can't make a fancy gown without the proper undergarments to wear with it. This means I have to begin by making the stays, chemise and panniers, and while the pocket doesn't need to come now, I figure I'll work on that too.

So the stays it is! Arguably the most important and most difficult piece I will make for this gown. I began by assembling my materials.

This is an assortment of materials that I am absolutely in love with. I'm using Gutterman 100% silk thread, silk ribbon in taupe from May Arts, hand dyed silk embroidery threads by Alyce Schroth purchased from my favorite embroidery shop - Hedgehog Hand works. The 100% linen is from Fabrics-store.com in a softened version for the outside and a heavier bleached version for the inner lining. 

I decided that I wanted a more accurate style than the Simplicity stays offered, so I went with the Reconstructing History pattern. I'm not 100% happy with it, but will withhold final judgement until I finish the project. 

I have the 2 layers of inner lining all drawn out and partially cut at this point. I used a Crayola Washable fine tip marker for the outlines. They are cheap, work fantastic, and I have never had an issue with them not washing out. I highly recommend ditching those expensive fabric markers that don't work and using Crayola WASHABLE markers instead!

I have begun to mark out the stitching lines for the boning. I'm using 1/4 half oval reed as boning, but it hasn't arrived yet. I made sure to mark off a bit of the seam allowances to make sure I know where everything is going. I decided that because I am hand stitching this whole thing I wanted to make it very nice for myself. I really wanted to add some embroidery to it - even if in a manner not historically accurate. 

I decided on a simple vine with leaves, grape/berry clusters and small flowers. You can see where I have drawn out the patterns. Along the back I've decided to embroider the bone channel on the inside of the channel that will hold the eyelets. 

More of the pieces drawn out with the embroidery designs added. I'm putting the vines on each of the tabs at the bottom. You can see that I decided to put the matching design on the shoulder straps that will not be boned. 

I am leaving a section about an inch and a half at most under the arms unboned. This should help make the stays more comfortable. I have decided to make use of this blank space and add more embroidery there. 

I'm working in bits and pieces assembling this, here I have begun work on the shoulder strap embroidery. You can see at the bottom end of the strap where I drew the design and forgot to add in the seam allowance so I had to go back over it. Luckily (I HOPE!) the washable marker should come right out when the times comes. Because of the silk threads I hope for that to be the one time I will be getting these stays wet. 

This center pieces is the farthest along. I have finished the simple embroidery and begun to hand stitch the channels for the boning. 

So - here it is in all its time consuming glory - a very strong backstitch. I will regret the teeny tiny stitch size at a later date when I am still sewing a year from now - but when it is done I am sure I will be quite proud! 

A ruler for an idea of just how many stitches I am cramming into an inch. Last I counted it was something like about 20 stitches to the inch. OUCH! At this point I sort of wish I'd have gone with silk for the outside fabric, but I just LOVE linen so much, so I will be fine with it. 

The upper edge, again, note where I had to redraw the design to account for the seam allowance. You can also see the thread and needle off to the side where I am nearly done stitching the first line for the boneing channels. 

This is the front bottom point. I'm very fond of the design. 

A slighty blurry photo of the back side of the stitching. 

The backside. The channels are sewn with the inner lining and the actual lining that will go against the body will be separate. 

I am very much in love with this sea green linen and the taupe silk ribbon together. I will be binding the edges with this ribbon as well as using it for the shoulder strap bows. I have a much smaller size of the ribbon to tape the seams in an appropriate fashion. 

This is my current 18th Century reference library. Love all these books. 

This is an extant garment. The tiny hand stitches of this are what inspired me to make mine so fine. 

I am AGES away from completion on this project but little by little they will take shape!